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G8MNY  > TECH     25.09.23 09:07l 198 Lines 10125 Bytes #999 (0) @ WW
BID : 56754_GB7CIP
Read: GUEST
Subj: MEDUSA SIP2300 Generator Repairs
Path: IW8PGT<I3XTY<IZ3LSV<DB0ERF<DK0WUE<GB7CIP
Sent: 230925/0703Z @:GB7CIP.#32.GBR.EURO #:56754 [Caterham Surrey GBR]
From: G8MNY@GB7CIP.#32.GBR.EURO
To  : TECH@WW

By G8MNY                                    (Updated Jul 21)
(8 Bit ASCII graphics use code page 437 or 850, Terminal Font)

My MEDUSA SIP2300 4 stroke petrol generator, had done many years service, but
recently packed up while /P.

It has a Honda style engine and is the same as the WOLF 2.3kW generator. But my
one has been modified to properly open the throttle without dropping revs to
give a full peak power of about 3kW.

                                        Gauge   Filler
 ÜÜßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßÜÜ                Û  _.==ÄÄÄÄÄðððððÄÄÄÄÄÄ.._  Û Tube
Û/~~~~~~Tank~~~~~~~\Û               Û/"     Large 12L Tank    "\Û Cage
Û-------------------Û      Fuel Tap Û===========================Û
Û\_____________/~~~~Û      & filter\Û|"""""~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~"""""|Û
Û    Tap(0)   ³elec Û           STOPÛÞ [] øOK ³ on³  " AC "    ÝÛ  AC
ÛChoke //   Sol\____Û         SWITCHÛ |_  øOil³ º ³ = =  = = _| Û 2x13A
ÛÚÄÄÄÄ¿  /~~~~~\\.  ÛPull           Û³~~""---..........---""~~³³Û
Û³In- ³,' /~~~\//\\ ÛStart          Û³F ³ENGINE      |     |  ³³Û
Û³Take³³ ³ ( ) ³  ³ Û               Û³A ³       (=)oil ALT |  ³³Û
ÛÀÄÄÄÄÙ \ \___/  /  Û               Û³N ³  _____³_³__|_____|  ³³Û
Û     Ú' ÚÄÄÄÄÄ¿ `¿ Û               ÛÀÄÄÁÄÄÜÙ           ÀÜÁÄÄÄÁÙÛ
ß"""""""""""""""""""ß                ßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßß

THE FAULT
Symptoms were slightly louder noise from the intake and not much power.
Manually opening the throttle there was no real increase in revs, and lots of
smoke, from loads of oil up the engine breather!

Discussing these symptoms with other engine experts, I got all sorts of bad
diagnoses. Myself I thought it could be a broken ring or valve spring. So I
started at the cylinder head and took the rocker cover off, the fault was
obvious! The exhaust valve rocker was at an angle & only pressing on the
spring, not the valve! The cause turned out to be a badly worn through push rod
guide plate (thin soft sheet steel).

 ROCKER .-.                              PUSH ROD GUIDE PLATE
       /( )\ Valve
       ³   ³                       GOOD                         BAD
       ³ _ ³                   ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿               ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿
       ³/ \³Stud,              ³  0     0  ³   Stud Holes  ³  0     0  ³
       ³(0)³Adjuster           ³  _     _  ³               ³  _     _  ³
       ³\_/³& locknut          ³ ( )   ( ) ³ ball end hole ³ ( )   ( ) ³
       ³   ³                   ³ ÞoÝ   ÞoÝ ³ Guide Flanges ³<o Ý   ÞoÝ ³
       \( )/ Pushrod           ³ ³_³   ³_³ ³               ³ ³_³   ³_³ ³
        ~-~(domed end)         ÀÄÄÄÄ^ÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ  o=Push rods  ÀÄÄÄÄ^ÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ

As there was no wear seen on the push rod, the repair was just to remove the
adjusters and rockers, and then 2 studs to extract the plate. Then silver
solder in a bass guide bush, drilled out to the push rod size and then filled
to make a "U" channel, that should last much longer than a new tin can plate.
The push rods are also very rough (like needle files) and needed smoothing to a
shine with fine emery cloth.

However things are never that simple, and putting back the 6m stud, I managed
to strip the thread in the soft aluminium cylinder head casting! :-(  This was
not all my fault, as the stud hole was much shallower on the exhaust port than
the intake, despite the studs being the same length!

         VALVE & SPRING
              //³    /³
          ÄÄÄ//ÄÄÄÄÄ//³¿             ÚÄ.ROCKER
          ÄÄ//ÄÄÄÄÄ//ij٠            ³ \
          ³//    ³// ³³              ³  \
                                     ³   ³
                       STUD          ³ ,-³        Ú¿
            _____³Ú¿_____________    ³/  ³    /~~~ ³ ÚÄ¿Lock
           ³_____³³ _____________³   ³   ³   ³     ³ ³ ³Nut
            M6   ³ÀÙ   Fine thread   ³\  ³    \___.³ ÀÄÙ
                 ³ HEX               ³ '-³        ÀÙ
CAM     Push Rod ³                   ³  /    Adjuster
 & ()============³======()            )/
Follower         ³                   ÀÙ
            Rod Guide
              plate

I think not cleaning the hole out with a bottoming 6M tap, meant the shallower
stud hole filled up with old stud glue (lock tight) stopping the stud from
going home, and caused me to strip the casting. After many attempts to the get
the stud to grip well enough, I gave up, and drilled and tapped it out to M8,
and made an M6-M8 adapter sleeve from some steel roding. This worked fine.

ALTERNATOR FAN INSPECTION
On taking the silencer off for repainting, through the air duct I noticed the
black plastic alternator fan was well out of true, and was just at the point of
rubbing the casing. I had seen a failed generator where plastic bits were
coming out of an air vent and the rotor had all shorted out (over heated no
fan?) As my fan is right in the middle of the generator, I needed to split most
of the alternator from the engine, something I had not done before on this one,
and I had some trouble doing it to get at the fan.

                                     CYLINDER
              End            Alt Fan ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄ´
            Casting          Casting ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄ´ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿
           ÚÄÂÄÄÄ¿____________ÚÄÄÄÄÄÂÙ      À´ENGINEÃÄ Pull
       Alt ³ ³   ³            ³ ÚÄÄÄ´ ENGINE ³      ³ \Start
       End ³ ³ [³³============³³³   ³        ³  FAN ³  \
      Cover³ ³   ³            ³ ³A D³ CRANK  ³      ³  ³
           ³ ³   ³ ALTERNATOR ³ ³I U³        ³   &  ³  ³ < Engine
Alternator>³ ³   ³   STATOR   ³ ³R C³  CASE  ³      ³  ³ < Cooling
  Cooling >³ ³   ³            ³ ³  T³        ³  FLY ³  ³ < Air
    Air   >³ ³ [³³============³³³   ³        ³      ³  /
           ³ ³   ³____________³ ÀÄÄÄ´        ³ WHEEL³ /
           ÀÄÁÂÄÂÙ            ÀÄÄÄÄÄÁÄÄÄÄÂÄÂÄ´      ÃÄ
              ÀÄÙ            /|\         ÀÄÙ ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ
             Rubber         SPLIT       Rubber
            Mounting       IT HERE     Mounting

The end alt cover lets you remove the electrical connections. Then extract the
4 outer long bolts clamping the stator. Remove the end casting (soft hammer may
be needed to free up the end bearing). Then remove the stator. This reveals
the diode pulsed excited rotor and fan, which is held to the engine crankshaft
by a really long bolt down the middle of the rotor shaft. Pulling force is
needed to dislodge the close conical fit to the engine shaft. The fan casting I
left on the engine.

                 flange ±±Ý                           ±±Ý
            ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿  \ Þ screws                       Ý
Long    Ú¿ /         \  ÙÝ'      __                    ÙÝÝ' Large
BoltÞ===³³²   ROTOR   ²²²Ý     =:__                  ²²²Ý   repair
        ÀÙ \         /  ¿Ý.      Coned                 ¿ÝÝ. washer
     BearingÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ   Þ        Engine                 Ý
                      ±±Ý        Shaft                ±±Ý
                  BAD FAN DISK

The fan disk is held on to the flange with 2 screws. I found there was no tube
spacer/Colette fitted on one of them & the plastic fan had been crushed and
slightly split due to this higher pressure. To solve this I made a large washer
from 3mm thick aluminium, so the weak plastic fan disk is better supported and
kept straighter.

Eventually after 2 years none use the fan split, repair was to strip down again
and put in a full size ally disk in instead of the washer and rivit the 2
halves of the fan on to it keeping it all fairly well balanced.
   
On reassembly light oil (WD40) was sprayed all over the rotor and stator steel
laminations to halt any bare steel rusting and maintain good electrical
insulation (water repellent) of the windings.

PREVIOUS PROBLEMS
1/ Rusted petrol tank (from water in the /P fuel), which eventually holed the
   tank. I used a phosphoric anti rust paint, after 1st doing a test on the
   petrol cap, that proved petrol had no effect on it. Then after a good clean
   out and drying, I painted as much of the inside as I could. The pin hole had
   raised the plastic dipped outer paint coating. So I scrapped that away and
   put a plug of really thick Hammerite paint in the hole, and left it a few
   days to dry and harden. I then redid the anti rust coat inside, and all is
   now well.

2/ Blocked fuel tap, This another consequence of water in the fuel, as the rust
   particles build up, NOT in the fuel filter trap under the tap, but in the
   cast pipe feeding the tap! Here I found hand held drills are the best used
   to clean the pipe.

  Threaded Ú¿bÚ¿
    Tank   ³³l³³                             To remove the tap, you
    Pipe   ³³o³³   Rubber                    must have less than
 ~~~~~~~~ÚÄ´³c³ÃÄ¿~seals                     half a tank of fuel!
         ÀÄ´³k³ÃÄÙ  /    screws
      NUT  ³³e³ÀÄÄÄ¿===Ý)                    Then remove the 2
           ³³d³    ³ÚÄ¿Ý   CIRCULAR CLAMP    tank bolts, turn
           ³³ ÀÄÄÄÄÙÀ¿ÃÄÄ.                   the tap to off and remove
           ³ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ³³   \ rotating         the rubber carb pipe.
Fuel       ³   ÚÄÄÄÙ ³³    \fuel path
to    ÄÄÄÄÄÁÄ¿ ³ÚÄÄ¿ÚÙÃÄÄ¿  \ TAP            Now remove and tilt the
carb  ÄÄÄÄÄ¿³ ³³  ³ÀÄÙÝ ³   \               tank so the tap is clear
           ÃÙÀÄ´ÃÄÄ´===Ý) \__/               of the starter case.
mesh filter³~~~  ~~³
            Ýdirt Þ                          Losen the locking nut and
            Ý& H20Þ                          unscrew the tap, keeping
            Ýbowl Þ                          the tank tilted and fuel
            ßßÛÛÛßß                          at the far end of the tank.
              NUT

3/ Ignition Coil protection, this is also a bare steel construction and mounted
   under the engine fan cover. To give another layer of damp protection I gave
   this a coat of paint.


SIMULAR 23008 Genny Fault
Mike G4FVG reports an "Open Circuit" excitation capacitor (large AC cap), after
trying to run a fridge. (This might have been a Power factor problem, or Pump
stalled in compression stroke, <on mains a 5 min current timeout trip occurs>)


Any feedback on the working with it would be appreciated.

See my tech buls "MEDUSA SIP2300 Generator Info" & "Petrol Generators for /P
SSB"


Y Don't U send an interesting bul?

73 de John G8MNY @ GB7CIP


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